The Joslin Garden—Getting Edgy and Mucky on March 25, 2021

Something clicked today; I can’t put a finger on it, but I think it was a combination of the beauty of the garden on this fine spring day, the anticipation of Earth Day, Thursday, April 22nd, and the upcoming plant sale. I need to start working on the plant list, but we will have lots of garden goodies. In any case, yesterday wore me out, err, excited me to press on. Nell and I are calling next week’s work session, “all hands on deck” to spread our newly discovered compost to cover the beds we are slowly weeding. After that, we can return to normal improvements. But first, there is still more work to be done in the compost piles. More on both later.

Eye candy

NELL GETS EDGY

Nell Joslin, clearing out dwarf mondo, Ophiopogon japonicus ' Nana', and adding snowflakes, Leucojum spp., then topping with compost.

Nell suspected there was more driveway than meets the eye! She was right! We found the edge a couple of feet inward. In the next week or two, we will move the soil back up the hill.

Nell Joslin added a line of dwarf mondo ‘Nana’ along the path. It is our hope we will end up with an entire lawn of ‘Nana’.

Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’ Nell Joslin dug up from other areas of the garden to use as edging. Our goal is to replace the lawn with this verdant beauty.

Nell and I discussed adding the dwarf mondo, Ophiopogon japonicus ' Nana' dug from where Volunteer Beth was working, but then we realized there is a weed barrier down. Please note how well the barrier is NOT affective. I’m not a fan AT ALL of weed barriers. Because of the barrier, we decided just to put down cardboard and cover with mulch. Maybe someday we can improve this area, but at least after next week it will not be an eye sore.

I gave Volunteer Art an assist in dealing with the metal edge. At this curve, the edging was up about an inch, holding back water. We agreed it needed to be fixed. First Art tried raising it, but it was proving difficult. Then we tried hammering it to sink. That got us nowhere. So with sheer determination, Art and Helen said, “we got this.” And in deed we did. Team work is always a good idea! If you look closely, you can see my knee prints in the muck on the front side of Art. Haha.

HELEN GETS MUCKY

Where to start? Things got a bit mucky in the garden. For anyone who has ever seen me garden, I do so at ground level. Crazy right?

I started with weeding the four quadrant Formal Garden. I thought I was going to knock out this project in a day, but I was oh, so wrong. I only weeded one quadrant, revealed its existing path, and mulched half of it. So what was the hold up? Read on.

Quadrant 1 in the Formal Garden before weeeding

Ok, here I am after moving and laying compost from Compost Bin 1.

So what was the slowdown? The compost bin. There are still a LOT of sticks mingling in with our black gold. Next week, my first priority will be to clear out the bin completely of sticks, so when we do start seriously laying compost, there will be no obstacles. Another mucky job, but it will save us time in the long run.

In the meantime, Volunteer Ailene began to tackle the winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, as we discussed last week. Ailene was off on her own working; I regret to say I almost forgot she was there! That is how independent our volunteers are!

Sadly, I didn’t get a picture, but man ole man, she was hard at work. To get this jasmine where we want it, it will take a few more weeks. In the mean time, we have babies to share at the plant sale.

Volunteer Beth was at it tackling another tough job. We had an area at the entrance, against the short retaining wall that was ALL dwarf mondo, Ophiopogon japonicus, the odd snowflake, Leucojum spp. and a sprinkling of daffs.

We decided to make that area a four-season bed. Beth dug out all the mondo, except along the edge, which we wanted to keep, and added several coneflowers, Echinacea purpurea ‘Cheyenne Sprit’, but likely crossed with the straight species. We were fortune to get plants from the City of Raleigh Parks greenhouse, as well as potting soil to pot-up starts for sale plants. We can soon do this b/c we will be part of District 4.

Volunteer Helen. I clean up nice, don’t you think? This photo was taken by Jeremy Schmidt with my second book, Plants with Benefits, was featured in the NYT.

Volunteer Helen, yes, that’s me, again, added volunteer hours. I bet you didn’t know that. I put in volunteer hours each week, as well. Typically house hours putting this post together. So yes, this post has been brought to you by Volunteer Helen. I hope you enjoyed it. If so, please give us a LIKE.

Until soon,

Helen Yoest, Horticultural Specialist

Environmental Scientist, M.S.

The Joslin Garden—Pruning, Plucking, and Preening-March 18, 2021

Nell Joslin hauling freshly mined compost

Dark again at 7:00 AM. The misty morning felt like we were in the Cotswold, England. Once the light shone in the garden, a light fog covered the trees tops, and we felt like we were in Asheville, NC . But it was better than both combined; we were in The Joslin Garden! A City treasure that must be experienced.

It was a good day at The Joslin Garden. With expected storms to arrive in the mid-afternoon, we weren’t sure if we would get in a full day. We did. The weather cooperated with us. I’ll have to amend this post later to see what damage the storms may have caused.

In anticipation of Neal’s team NOT being free Friday (they may be too busy helping the City of Raleigh overall), we made sure we took all the biowaste was taken to the side of the street property— knowing it may need to wait a week.

P.S. The storms pass our area of Raleigh.

And on another bit of GREAT news, Nell and I are fully vaccinated, as is Volunteer Art; so we were totally mask-free. The City allows us to work mask-free in open park spaces and being sure to don a mast when visitors walk by. Because of the misty weather, we were able to put our faces into the mist. It felt good.

PRUNING

It seems like it is Chindo week for me. I pruned rows of them at Mordecai, Chindo viburnum, Viburnum awabuki 'Chindo' earlier during the week. These babies can really get out of hand, and yes, this one was planted too close to the path and house. They are really too big for most locations. But here we have one, so we will manage it.

In pruning Chindos, it’s best to NOT shear it. It’s best to identify “water sprouts”, those shoots that come right up from the bottom. We had to take a lot out, and there were some “holes” that are not desirable, but they will fill in. Chindos grow fast!

I’ve misplaced the before picture, but to give you an idea of how high the Chindos grew, I pruned out several stems that were 12 higher than the tallest stems!

Helen Yoest after pruning the Chindo..

PLUCKING

We are STILL plucking Bearclaw hellebores, Helleborus foetidus! Can you believe this? I can and so can Volunteer Art. I forgot to get a pic of Art, but trust me when I say he dragged two tarps full to the street. I’ve even lost count of the number of BAGs we have filled, let alone the actual number of plants. No doubt, they were in the thousands by now, and still not done!.

As the plucking continued, we have a couple of winter flowering Jasmine that are basically leaf catchers. Winter Jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, is a popular plant to fall over a retaining wall or slope, easy to grow, and sometimes flowers as early as November and often in December and January, and then right through March. This year, they are just beginning to bloom!

I took on an easy one to pluck out the leaves, because I wanted to save the larger one for Volunteer Ailene. She likes defined projects. This will keep her busy next Thursday. ;)

Winter jasmine before. See what I mean? A leaf catcher!

It looks so much better…at least me me <3

Winter flowering Jasmine can get a bit messy so that the stems are a tangle, as shown in the image below. To overcome its untidy habit, pruning will help to keep it in shape. This variety of Jasmine is always pruned in the spring immediately after flowering. But when there is a problem, there is no need to wait, or at least that has been my long-held view. We will not necessarily be pruning it, but plucking out years or even decades of growth where it has spread.

The real hunk was left for next week. Volunteer Ailene and I talked about this mess below last week. I think I have a plan to tackle it. I’m sure (I hope) she is still on board with taming the monster.

This winter form of Jasmine always flowers yellow, Latin name is Jasminum nudiflorum means naked flowers. The latin name is describing the flowers on bare branches ahead of the foliage.

Although commonly described as a climbing plant, it has no tendrils and is not very self supporting; it is more of shrubby scrambler than a climber. It has long arching branches which will arch upwards and over a fence or wall and can be trained  or tied to cover a structure.  Jasmine growing vertically up a wall or fence will need to be tied in to train the growth. 

PREENING

There are a lot more to Camellia japonicas than just a pretty face. We are in the spent-camellia-blossoms-mode. It’s important to rake up spent blooms from the ground. Did you know that?

CAMELLIAS: There are two types of camellias commonly used in eastern North Carolina. The Japanese camellia, C. japonica, is a large plant that gets 15 to 20 feet tall and six to ten feet wide. Japanese camellias have large leaves and flowers that are 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Blooms may open from early winter to spring.

Sasanqua camellias, C. sasanqua, have smaller leaves on a plant that is normally six to ten feet high and about three to five feet wide (there are some dwarf types too). Flowers are only two to three inches in diameter and open in the fall or early winter.

Both types come with flower colors of pink, red, and white, and form a broad, densely branched evergreen pyramid.

Camellias like acidic (pH 5 to 6.5), well-drained soils. It is best to plant them on the north side of a house or in semi-shade, and in The Joslin Garden, under the cover of hardwoods and pines.. Container plants can be planted at any time of the year. Spacing of camellias is important as it is with all plants. Based on their size, research has shown that sasanqua camellias should be planted at least 4 feet from a wall to allow access for maintenance and good air circulation.

If camellias are to be used in a hedge, plant them five to six feet on center. To keep sasanqua camellias individually, plant at least eight feet on center. Plant camellias six to eight feet from a wall, eight feet on center for a hedge, and at least 12 feet on center to keep plants individual.

Nell Joslin cleaning up spent blooms to help control the spread of diseases.

Groom: Tidy camellia blooms. Spent camellia blooms, particularly with C. japonicas, are susceptible to petal blight. Remove fallen blooms — and those ready to fall — to prevent the spread of disease and insect problems.

If you suspect your faded flowers have blight, don’t put them in the compost pile. Instead, place them in a plastic bag and dispose of it in the trash.

Currently, many of The Joslin Garden camellias have tea scale. Nell has arranged for Leaf and Limb to treat those camellias. It is out hope that good housekeeping will also keep the scale at bay. But it may be wishful thinking. At least, I know we won’t get blight.

Pruning camellias should be done following flowering; prune each type of camellia accordingly, if at all. In The Joslin Garden, no pruning is needed.

IN THE MEANTIME…

After pruning, plucking, and preening, I weeded The Rose Garden again. I’ve been waiting to mulch The Rose Garden bed since I directed sowed bread poppies about three weeks ago. I was waiting form them to germinate. To today was my day to tidy up the bed. The bed was filled with harry bittercress. Yikes. I did my best.

The Rose Garden before weeding and mulching!

Stay tuned for next week where Nell gets edgy and I get mucky!

I’m already looking forward to next week. I want to leave you with one last thought. Garden maintenance isn’t a chore. While working in the garden, be sure to stop and admire all that is around you. I took a rest cleaning up camellias, and before I started back, I found this image below. I stoped and gave wonder. The perfectly shaped heart told me Bill and Mary are looking down and are pleased with our efforts.

Until soon,

Helen Yoest

Horticultural Specialist

Environmental Scientist, M.S.

The Joslin Garden—Volunteers (and donors) are The Backbone of our Non-Profit—March 9, 2021

Nell Joslin and I do our best, and with 4+ acres, you can imagine, we welcome volunteers. Recently, Art and Ailene, The ‘A’-team, helped us in the garden with two different goal-center tasks. They made such a difference! Then Beth joined us. She too is part of the ‘A’ team…there are no “B” workers ever. Volunteers get an automatic A.

If you have time, we’d love to have you volunteer with us at The Joslin Garden. If interested, please sign up HERE! We can work with any skill level, and I promise you will learn something during each visit. We love sharing plant information and tales.

Art tackled ridding the Bear-claw, Helleborus foetidus. There is still plenty more if you want to join us next Thursday. As it happens, Beth is able to use them for another volunteer projects she is involved with.

Volunteer Art giving The Joslin Garden a helping hand.

Volunteer Aliene spreading dwarf mondo grass..

Since I first started working in The Joslin Garden on January 7, 2021, I wanted to move part of a patch of dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus from one side of the path to fill in the opposite side. Ailene made it happen! Looks good, right? Ailene said it was like digging in concrete, the clay was so bad there. But Ailene got it and now were can focus on other tasks.

A job well-done by Volunteer Ailene!

Nell Joslin, always ready to pitch in, turned compost Bin 1, the one we cleared first, and discovered what was underneath last week. Turning it will help to break down the organic matter quicker, and we wanted to see what we’d be working with.

We plan to spread a good bit of this compost in Bin 1 into the veggie garden, the entrance beds to the main garden, and the rose garden. I did self-sowed bread poppies, Papaver somniferum, in the rose garden so I want to wait until they are clearly visible. Did you know poppies need sunlight to germinate?

Once we see some size to our poppies, we will then cover the bed with compost. This is black gold. In other words, good stuff! Chris, our Executive Director starter moving over compost today!

Volunteer Nell turning Bin 1 Compost pile!

Compost Bin 2 has had a clearing start.

Cleaning out Compost Bin 2.

Compost Bin 2 cleared out…I think. there is more digging to do, but I got out a lot of big stuff!

What NOT to put in the compost pile. Bin 2 was filled with debris like this.

What a haul we do each week!!!

There were two Ilex x 'Nellie R. Stevens' at each end of the front of the house. Or at least there were. ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ always seems to be in a state of needed something cut, and they are fast growers. About a month ago, I sawed down the one closest to the front door. Today, Volunteer Beth, took down the other. Her remark was, “That was very satisfying!” I know the feeling. Nothing feels better than the feeling of accomplishment!

No doubt they will sprout back, and when they do, we plan to manage the size.

Removing this other holly was on our list. Volunteer Beth mades short work of this!

Volunteer Beth making short work of removing the holly.

Volunteer Beth next took on the Carolina jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens tangled up in the tree. Even though I like vines trellising trees, it was clear the intent of this vine, it was meant to vine along the fence.

This Carolina jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens, was trellising the tree. Volunteer Beth untangled it and draped it around the fence. I had a great picture of her as she finished, but I accidentally erased it. Bummer! I’ll get another!

Too many sticks are throughout. While the volunteers were busy at work, I picked up sticks!

“Oh look!”, I exclaimed, There is a fire. Perhaps these sticks can go in there!

With just enough time during my day, I managed to plant Japanese roof iris, Iris tectorum from Nell’s home garden, and Iris japonica ‘Eco Easter’ from my friend Abby’s garden. Abby shared some with me too!

The Raleigh Parks gardeners, Drew and Lauren, stopped by since they worked with their own volunteer group at the Park across the street. These gals were from the Raleigh Garden Club. After they toured the property, the comments were glowing, but I realized that I’d not ventured much beyond areas around the house since January. So what did I do? I identified a task that would allow me to do a walk-around. With a wheelbarrow, I walked; I admired all the early bloomers and picked up sticks.

Oh, and by the way, I walked across the street to cut back the ivy on my break time. I’ve done five trees so far. Little by little, I will have the ivy cut. It is another satisfying task.

There are around 60 camellias on the property, and it seemed like all were in bloom. Please visit. We work just like a park. Just come and enjoy. We are open from 9 to 5. Here are some of the blooms I found along the way:

Prettiest Pink Camellia Never, or at least I think so!

Camellia japonica still waiting to be identified.

Thanks for visiting.

Until, soon!

Helen Yoest

Horticiulist Specialist

Environmental Scientist M.S.

IN THE WILDFLOWER CIRCLE—Three Bulbs to Know and Grow & Bulb Types—The Joslin Garden, March 4, 2021

The Joslin Garden Wildflower Circle

There is a planting bed Mary Coker Joslin called the Wildflower Circle in the driveway circle center. Indeed, the circle bed is packed with the littlest bulbs to the showiest wildflowers. As the season progresses, we will learn more about what’s flowering in the Wildflower Circle, but for today, let’s MARCH FOURTH and learn about three bulbs making a show of it today!

Not all “bulbs” are the same. There are five bulb types falling under that title: true bulbs, corms, tubers, rhizomes, and tuberous roots. It’s a good idea to understand differences, but it’s also OK to call them all bulbs. Or at least I think so.  

True bulbs contain a fully formed plant. Daffodils, tulips, lilies, grape hyacinths, and amaryllis are all true bulbs. If you slice open a daffodil vertically, you will find the entire embryonic daffodil—flower, stem, leaves, and roots—ready to spring forth once the time is right.

Corms are similar to true bulbs in that they contain a stem base, but they do not hold the entire embryo plant. The roots growing from a basal plate are located on the bottom of the corm. (The basal plate is the base area of the bulb.) The growth point is located on the top of the corm. A corm only lasts for a single season, but a new corm will form on top of the old. Plus, “cormels” are also produced, forming around the corm’s basal plate base. Popular corms include gladiolus and crocus.  

Tubers have an underground stem base with no basal plate. The tuber's roots grow from both the base and from the sides, with multiple growth points spread out over the tuber’s surface. Classic examples are anemone and caladiums. 

A rhizome is a thickened stem that grows either partly or completely underground. If you immediately thought of a bearded iris, you are correct. On a rhizome, the largest growth point is located at one end, with additional growth points located along the sides. Most of us can clearly identify these bulbs as rhizomes. 

Tuberous roots are the fifth and final type of bulb. Most often, tuberous roots are not thought of as bulbs at all (at least, not by me), but they are. Their parts below the ground are unmistakable. Unlike other bulb types, those tuberous roots have puffy root-like structures that look as though someone pumped them up like a balloon, but they are really adapted stems—not a true root. Instead, the actual root grows from the sides and the tip of the tuberous root. Familiar tuberous root plants include dahlias and daylilies.

If you want to read a charming book by Elizabeth Lawrence, check out her 1950s title called: The Little Bulbs, A Tale of Two Gardens. Of course, we aim to charm, too, so please read on!

When styling your garden at home, there is no reason not to have bulbs blooming during every month of the year. The variety is astounding. I had so many summer-blooming bulbs, but I never actually thought of them as bulbs. In the end, I don’t suppose it mattered, as long as I enjoyed watching the hummingbird sipping nectar from cannas, wondered at the twisting red and yellow petals of the glory lily (Gloriosa superba), or admired the crocosmia lying across the gravel path. 

THE WILDFLOWER CIRCLE

GALANTHUS spp., Snowdrops

Snowdrop, Galanthus spp. are herbaceous plants of the Amaryllis family, a genus of perennial grasses. In nature, there are about 20 species, most native to the Caucasus and Asia.

Biologists cannot say for sure how many Galanthus species since are several opinions on this matter. However, they all believe that the number of plant varieties exceeds 18. Many types of snowdrops are very similar to each other, and most are approximately the same size.

Did you know all plants receive their names—genus, specific epithet, cultivar—either from the place found or in honor of the people who discovered and researched them. Often, as we will see with G. Nivalis, the genus and species we named from a Greek (genus) and Latin (species) word.

Within the Wildflower Circle, I’ve found (so far) two species of Galanthus—G. nivalis and G. elwesi.

Snowdrops are a true harbinger of spring, or should I say winter, since they typically bloom from January to mid-March? Forming an impressive blanket of white in areas where they’re native or have naturalized, like in The Joslin Garden.

GALANTHUS NIVALIS

Galanthus nivalis, considered the common snowdrop, is the best-known and most widespread of the 18 or more species in its genus, Galanthus. 

Galanthus nivalis earned its name from the combination of two words, one Greek and the other Latin. Galanthus, from the ancient Greek word, means “milk-white flower,” while the Latin word nivalis means resembling snow.

Easily grown in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Prefers moist, humusy soils in part shade. Grows particularly well under deciduous trees where exposure to the sun is full in early spring, but gradually changes to part shade as the trees leaf out.

GALANTHUS ELWESI

Galanthus elwesi, Large snowdrops

Galanthus elwesi is commonly referred to as the large or giant snowdrop. G. elwesi has larger flowers, leaves, and size than the similar common snowdrop, G. nivalis. Each flower has six tepals—three spreading outer tepals and three shorter inner tepals.

These large snowdrops favor the same growing conditions as G. nivalis.

Specific epithet honors Henry John Elwes (1846-1922), an English entomologist, botanist, and naturalist who is believed to have introduced the plant into cultivation. Species plants are native to mountain areas of western Turkey.

CYCLAMEN COUM

The Joslin Garden has an existing, albeit out of date, a database of plants. There are three Cyclamen spp. listed—Cyclamen coum, C. hederifolium, and C. var album. So far, I’ve identified two, one in bloom, and the other waiting to emerge. Again, special thanks to Tim Alderton, at the JC Raulston Arboretum for identifying the two found so far.

These guys are so similar I couldn’t tell the difference, until Tim’s identification. To tell the difference, look to the flowers. Cyclamen coum flowers are dumpy and have no auricles at the base. The flowers of C. hederifolium are more elongated and have auricles. The leaves are also different, and for now, since C. hederifolium isn’t in bloom at this time, you can also look to the foliage. C. coum has rounded leaves, and C. hederifolium is more pointed. And of course, you can just enjoy the bloom and now worry at all about identifying the various ones.

Cyclamen coum

CYCLAMEN HEDERIFOLIUM

Cyclamen hederifolium

CROCUS

The Joslin Garden plant list for 2007 indicates two croci (plural for crocus), a blue form, and a yellow form. The cultivar isn’t listed. Both are blooming now.

This crocus is identified as a purple form in the 2007 database. I can name this one, it is Crocus tommasinianus or affectionally know as the Tommies

Yellow form crocus.

Gardeners often confuse crocus with colchicum. I tend to think of crocus as a spring-blooming bulb and colchicum blooming in the fall. Except for Crocus satvius, also known as the saffron crocus blooming in the fall.

Telling the difference between crocus and colchicum is easy once you know two main traits to look for.

One. Flowers: Colchicum flowers have six stamen (male flower part), while croci have only three.

Two. Foliage:  Spring-blooming crocus varieties flower at the same time foliage emerges. So if you see foliage AND flowers, it is one of the spring crocus varieties, not so with Colchicum. spp. With colchicum, the flowers bloom without foliage, which comes later. Some refer to as nakked ladies. (I wonder what Mary Coker Joslin thought about that? I know it makes me blush.) Colchicum leaves appear in spring and is large and floppy, then the flower follows in the fall.

Thanks for following us along on The Joslin Garden journey!

Until soon,

Helen Yoest

Horticulturist Specialist

Environmental Scientist, M.S.

The Joslin Garden—Ivy and Compost!—2-25-20

Thank you for following us on our journey to prepare The Joslin Garden for the 2021 season! We began our tasks on January 7th, and it is a process of putting one foot forward. There is a lot to do, and we hope to bring the Garden into full health while also enhancing the visitor’s experience by April. Even then, we won’t be near the point where daily maintenance will be all that is needed. It may take a year to reach that goal, but we are getting there, one Thursday at a time. We hope to have more than one day a week in the coming months.

ENGLISH IVY

Full disclosure, The Joslin Garden has a lot of English ivy, Hedera helix, The ivy is primarily at the street and driveway entrance, and was intentionally planted for erosion control of the steep slope. Over time, the ivy crept further back into the wooded area, so one of our tasks today was to cut it back to the crest of the slope. 

Before—taking ivy back to the crest of the hill. It was encroaching into forest bed

We also removed English ivy across street where the English ivy is climbing up the trees in the city park area. Nell Joslin has done this in the past, but we will keep it on our radar since it affects not only The City of Oaks Foundation’s garden but also the surrounding home gardens. 

Pulling the ivy to the crest of the slope.

Did you know English ivy will only bloom, berry, and invade if it’s allowed to climb? Former caregivers of The Joslin Garden have been diligent to keep English ivy from vining up trees. So we don’t have babies everywhere, but there are still some, most likely sown by birds from neighboring properties, including the easement across the street.

During the deep ivy dig and cut along the crest, we uncovered a row of sweetbox, Sarcococca spp. They are spread further apart than I would have done if I wanted an impact, and the plants are very small. But given that they do seem to follow the ivy line, they must have been intentionally planted. The ivy was keeping the sweetbox from thriving!

COMPOSTING

Somewhere along the Garden’s journey, the compost piles were neglected. There is “black gold’ under the latest uncomfortable additions .

Neglected compost pile

After Nell and I removed the sticks, we found more black gold compost that we thought was there. It is already usable. Next week we’ll add some of it to the veggie garden.

Starting a compost pile is as easy as following any recipe. Just the right materials are all mixed. In a matter of months, you’ll have finished black gold to mix into the soil of your flower, herb, and vegetable gardens. Or leave it in the garden beds where the biomass is laid. 

MAKING A PILE

To get started, find a place for your compost pile that’s convenient to the garden and has well-drained soil.

Here are seven simple steps for making compost:

1. Add a Brown Layer—leaves, old grass clippings, shredded paper, hay, and straw for your carbon source. Think brown as in not moist. Lay a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of brown material on the bottom. Shred the materials before adding them to quicken the decomposition process.

2. Moisten Layer—Dampen the bottom layer so that it’s moist but not soggy. The moisture will help accelerate the decomposition process by providing the right environment for microbes to break down the material.

3. Add a Green Layer—Fresh grass clippings, vegetable kitchen wastes, garden biomass such as weeds, small twigs, and herbaceous cuttings snipped into 6-inch pieces or less lengths; disease-free vegetable plants; and cow, horse, or chicken manure.

4. Add a second Brown Layer.

5. Moisten Again.

6. Add a second Green Layer—2- to 4-inch-thick layers of nitrogen-rich green materials, such as fresh grass clippings or vegetable kitchen scraps. If you wish, add a compost enhancer or fertilizer to help jump-start the pile.

7. Make More Layers—Alternate layers of brown and green material until the pile is 3- to 5-feet high (or container is full). Moisten each layer before adding the next.

Ok, so now you know the secret. You really can’t mess up. Just keep in mind to build the pile with roughly equal amounts of green and brown, and keep moist. Also, it's best not to include large sticks, so break them up into smaller pieces; the green materials should be small as well, to accelerate decomposition.

OUR TRANSPLANTS

While digging out the compost bin, we found three snowdrop bulbs, Galanthus elwesii. What a find indeed! Nell planted it in the driveway bed.

Then we found an American beech, Fagus grandifolia, volunteer to close to a path. We transplanted it into the Beech Copse area. After planting, Nell and I felt a motherly pride. We shall call her, Baby Beech!

Until soon,

Helen Yoest, Horticultural Specialist

No Brainer How-To Compost Garden Biomass

You may be familiar with composting kitchen waste. There is a lot written about it. But did know you do the same for garden biomass, formally known as yard waste? The practice is no different. 

Starting a compost pile is as easy as following any recipe. Just the right materials all mixed together. In a matter of months, you’ll have finished black gold to mix into the soil of your flower, herb, and vegetable gardens. Or just leave it in the garden beds where the biomass laid. 

In the Bee Better Teach Garden, we practice cold composting, which is basically composting in place. There is no turning. This practice takes longer for the biomass to become compost, but it really works well in our garden, because we can leave it and forget about it, it’s ready to use before we know it! 

We compost biomass in a discrete place, and I designed the garden to allow for this. The beds were designed with a formal boxwood hedge to add structure to all the wildness behind them. It doesn’t have to be in a discreet place but for many, keeping a tidy garden is necessary. I’m one of those people, so when I designed my garden I allowed for this. Since 1997, I have been doing this in beds behind the boxwood hedge, filling one and moving on to the next, and I truly have the best soil in six states!

Bee Better Naturally Cold Composting

COMPOST INGREDIENTS

Compost is decomposed or well-rotted organic material. It can be made from a variety of organic materials, such as vegetable waste, leaves, grass clippings, and even animal manures. The cleanup of our chicken coop also goes over these compost piles, the high nitrogen helps break the garden waste down faster. 

Making cold compost is a very simple process of alternating layers of brown (high in carbon) and green (high in nitrogen) ingredients–-adding water between each layer–-and keep topping off with a mixture of brown and green. I do so until I can see the top from behind the hedge. And given the hedge is at least 40-feet long and 15-feet deep, that is a lot of area to fill.

MATERIALS TO USE

Brown ingredients, such as old grass clippings, shredded paper, hay, and straw are the high carbon ingredients. We also #LeaveTheLeaves. I’m also been known to pick up bagged leaves from the street when I know the leaves are maple or oak. Great wildlife food source!

Green ingredients, such as fresh grass clippings, although I don’t bag my clippings; rather, I recycle them to the lawn as I cut, providing about 25% nitrogen required for turf; vegetable kitchen wastes (including coffee grounds; no, especially coffee grounds, which are high in nitrogen.); yard biomass such as weeds and small twigs; disease-free vegetable plants; and cow, horse, or chicken manure. Again, I take advantage of this when cleaning out the girl’s coop. If you are low on green materials, you also can use high-nitrogen organic fertilizers, such as blood meal and cottonseed meal.

Materials To Avoid

Items that should be kept out of compost include meat, bones, and dairy products. It’s not that these items won’t break down, they will if animals don’t get to them before the solider flies come in to reduce the mass in no time. Also, make sure the added material is cut up small. Large amounts of wood chips won’t break down quickly.

MAKING A PILE

To get started, find a place for your compost pile that’s convenient to the garden and has well-drained soil.

Here are seven simple steps for making compost:

1. Add a Brown Layer—leaves, old grass clippings, shredded paper, hay, and straw for your carbon source. Think brown as in not moist. Lay a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of brown material on the bottom. Shred the materials before adding them to quicken the decomposition process.

2. Moisten Layer—Dampen the bottom layer so that it’s moist, but not soggy. The moisture will help accelerate the decomposition process by providing the right environment for microbes to break down the material.

3. Add a Green Layer—Fresh grass clippings, vegetable kitchen wastes, garden biomass such as weeds, small twigs, and herbaceous cuttings snipped into 6-inch piece lengths or less; disease-free vegetable plants; and cow, horse, or chicken manure.

4. Add a second Brown Layer

5. Moisten Again

6. Add a second Green Layer—2- to 4-inch-thick layers of nitrogen-rich green materials, such as fresh grass clippings or vegetable kitchen scraps. and If you wish, add a compost enhancer or fertilizer to help jump-start the pile.

7. Repeat—Alternate layers of brown and green material until the pile is 3- to 5-feet high (or container is full). Moisten each layer before adding the next.

Ok, so now you know the secret. You really can’t mess up. Keep in mind to layer the pile roughly with equal amounts of green and brown, and keep moist. Also that there are no large sticks, and smaller ones are broken up into smaller pieces; as well as the green materials are small to accelerate decomposition. 

THE BREAKDOWN

You can turn the pile if you like doing that sort of thing. I don’t. If you do, wait until after the center heats up and then cools down (up to several weeks, depending on the time of year and size and composition of the material), turn the pile. Use a garden fork, composting tool, or shovel to mix the contents, blending the inside and outside materials. Moisten the pile again after mixing. Repeat turning the pile once or twice. The compost is ready to use when it’s dark and crumbly–usually in a month or two. With no turning, it will take twice as long, but I’m in no hurry.

Incorporate a 1- to 2-inch-thick layer of finished compost into vegetable and annual flower beds two weeks before planting. On poor soil, add a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer.

Now you are all set!!! When you begin spring cutbacks, you will have enough brown to start with, then with your first grass cutting, add your green. So yes, it doesn’t have to happen on the same day or even week.

Compost happens!

The Joslin Garden—Quandaries—Poles, a Hole, and Hellebore Hell!—2-18-21

One of the best ways to view your garden is through pictures. What you’ll find is that you have walked by an untidy hose, a broken board, leaves covering a bench, or any number of things you don’t see because your mind is so used to seeing these objects, and they disappear. 

This week we are addressing three such quandaries: The Poles, The Hole, and the Hellebores!  Another one, untidy hoses, has already been addressed. I will be the first to admit, I’m a stickler for this kind of details. 

THE POLES

The Poles

While I was working on The Porch Bed last time, I took before and after pictures. And even though I was in this bed working for several hours, and probably even tripping over the poles, I didn’t see them until I studied the photographs. Crazy, right?  I’m typically very observant. Actually, I saw one individually, and maybe them all individually, but the after pictures revealed several of them.

Seeing the poles begged the question, “Why are they there?” Fortunately, we have Nell Joslin to help demystify quandaries. Or do we? When I asked Nell what there were once used for, she didn’t know. That proves my point. For a lifetime, Nell walked by these poles and never knew why they were there. 

The poles look like old survey stakes. I remember cutting my foot on of these as a seven-year kid playing in the front yard. We lived on a corner lot, and of course, BACK THEN, we never wore shoes. (My mom was on to something every time she yelled to us, “Keep your shoes on!”) But of course, we kids didn’t listen at that age, especially when it came to what might hamper outdoor play activities. No one wore shoes…then. Going barefoot was worth the risk of a few stitches. Ha!

I wondered if they were once bird feeder posts, but upon closer inspection, they were several in a row, which let me believe this, but then I noticed on one side, the poles made a right angle. Not likely for the bird feeders.

On further thought, Nell Joslin weighed in, here are her thoughts: “About the stakes, I think that bird feeders are actually a very possible explanation. I remember my father having bird feeders in that vicinity. Also given the years and years that the land has been farmed and now gardened, there are all kinds of possibilities -- surveyors' stakes, remains of old fencing from the days when livestock was kept on this land, or even horseshoe pits. There is also evidence that Civil War troops occupied these lands in the 1860s (shell casings have been found). And lots and lots of Indian arrowheads from 100s and 100s of years ago (way older than those pipes, of course!). I do wish I'd thought to ask my father when I had the chance.”

THE HOLE

A Hole

This hole has all of us scratching our heads! The hole wasn’t even known about until a kid was playing in The Joslin Garden, and one foot fell into the hole! The hole was off the beaten path, and not likely found until this happened. While we encourage visitors to the garden, Monday through Friday, from 9 to 5, we have signs posted to stay on the paths. Much like my story above, not listening, these kids strayed. Here is our quandary. What purpose did the hole once serve? Nell didn’t know. The hole is three-foot deep and just as wide once you enter the hole. The entrance hole is only about 18-inches wide. Both the entrance hold and the beneath ground void are perfectly symmetrical. 

My large gardening glove for perspective.

Maybe once, long ago, It could have been a tree or shrub, most likely a ball and burlap, that has completely disappeared. It could be a nest, but there were no signs of that at all. Nell doesn’t remember it as a child. It’s a quandary, one we may never know the answer to unless we can Google an old aerial map. I’m looking into this.

Inside the hole

HELLEBORE HELL!

Um, “stinking” hellebores

Maybe we have gotten a little obsessed with our stinking hellebores, Hellebore foetidus. It keeps showing up in our posts. We hope to soon tame them to the point where they can easily be controlled. Stinking hellebores are great plants and early nectar and pollen sources for early emerging bees. But we have too much of a good thing in The Joslin Garden. 

We’ve put out an offer to Raleigh City Parks for District gardens which might want to add these hellebores to the gardens under their care.. District 5 will be using many in the Valley Henderson Park, and we even offered these to District gardeners to stop by and dig up all they need. That’s how nice we are; she writes tongue-in-cheek!

Do you like irony? We may be going too far on this irony, though. Did you know Mary Coker Joslin didn’t like the word “stink,” and it wasn’t allowed to be spoken at home? Interesting, right? 

Nell doesn’t know when the stinking hellebores first showed up in the home garden, but we do know stinking hellebores were not liked by Mrs. Joslin at all. Nell wondered if her Mom knew the common name and that was why she didn’t like this plant. In any case, The Joslin Garden is now overrun with not only a plant Mary Joslin didn’t like but had a common name she wouldn’t allow said at home. Thus, we will rectify this quandary by getting rid of as many as possible, and everyone never uses THAT common name again. What will they be called? How about the other common name, “bearclaw”?

Up next week, we will continue to tackle the bearclaw hellebores, direct sowing red and salmon-colored poppies collected last summer from the Bee Better Naturally Teaching Garden and emptying the compost pile for a fresh start.

Until soon,

Helen Yoest

Horticultural Specialist

The Joslin Garden—The Mondo Mess, The Hot Mess, and a Distressful Mess—2-11-21

Over time, every garden needs some taming. Many designers will suggest a complete redo of an original design every five years or so. Today we tackled three messes of overgrown, beyond boundaries, situations.

The Mondo Mess—Climbing Hydrangea

Oh dear, what to do?!? We have a confused and overgrown mondo mess!

I've grown climbing hydrangeas, Decumaria spp. before, and although there are similarities to hydrangeas, despite its common name, this isn't a hydrangea at all! 

I asked my friend, Tim Alderton, at the JC Raulston Arboretum, if he knew which climbing hydrangea this was, a Decumaria barbara or D. sinensis? He replied that he couldn't tell from the picture, but in either case, it was probably given to the Joslins by the JCRA.

Climbing hydrangea in flower.

Climbing hydrangea is a woody vine to 30 ft., attaching by rootlets. The leaves are smooth, shiny, round to oval, deciduous, and the flowers are fragrant. This vine can be used as both a trailing groundcover and a climber; it will only bloom when climbing and then only on new wood.

My first approach was to thin out this mondo mess before transplanting and save those clippings. With these aerial roots, we can propagate, then grow them out and offer to do a fundraiser. Stay tuned!

It took some doing to untangle. At first, Nell and I thought the main root was planted above the wall. As I worked my way through, the original design became clear. We hope we see new sprouts in spring and we can then train them along the wall. My educated guess was that it was planted and then forgotten about. It’s on our radar now!

Hot Mess—Porch Bed

Next up was trying to tame the hot mess in the Porch Bed. What a mess. A HOT mess, actually.

The Windmill Palm/Porch Bed before

These are the kind of projects I like to do. I know they are overwhelming to many as to where to begin, but like any journey, it starts with there first step.

It took a good part of the morning to clear out this bed of unwanted growth and invasives. We managed though. Now, all we need is mulch!

Tony Avent with Plant Delights Nursery called me the garden editor—a play on words because I like to edit gardens and because I’m a garden writer. I took it as a honor!!

The Windmill Palm/Porch Bed after

Distress Mess—Stinking Hellebores

They are EVERYWHERE. At first, when Nell pointed them out, I didn't quite understand. I know stinking hellebores, Hellebore Foetidus faster than a dog chasing a bunny, even though the bunny typically wins! In the case of stinking hellebore's, if you think, “Oh, they’re fine” before you know it, the chase is on! By the way, Mary Joslin wasn't a fan of them either, as we learned HERE!

Such began our journey to pull them out. At least they’re easy to pull and we want this done before they go to seed. On my!

We also picked up 10,000 fallen sticks, planted our Echinacea spp. ‘Cheyenne Spirit’, shared with us from the City of Raleigh greenhouse, and took down a Chinese holly.

Nell and I are making so much progress! Just think what we could do with three or four days a week!!!

Until Soon, Helen Yoest

Horticultural Specialist

The Joslin Garden—Fulfilling the Bee’s Needs—2-04-21

Nature and environmental awareness is the cornerstone of the Joslin Garden. 

Wildlife logs.

William and Mary Coker Joslin always believed that parks and greenways are a large part of what makes Raleigh a vibrant and healthy place to live. By donating their home and garden to the City of Oaks Foundation, Joslin’s garden plan is to give all visitors and citizens of Raleigh another natural haven from urban life. They hope that the Joslin Garden will provide a place where environmental awareness and conservation can be nurtured through education and the joy of a deep connection with the natural world. The City of Oaks Foundation. 

The City of Oaks Foundation always welcomes ideas to enhance our endeavors, and our posts are about raising awareness, be it learning about plants or Nature and the environment.

We were recently asked if we considered having European honey bees, Apis mellifera, hives to help with pollination…and to help save the honey bees.

The City of Oaks Foundation likes the idea of having hives, one day may brand our own honey, but in the meantime we are already helping bees. You are too when you think of it. Are you pesticide-free and have a diversity of plants? That is a good place to start.

William Joslin’s children relate that during the late 1970s-mid ’80s, he kept bees at the Joslin Garden. He successfully harvested honey and maintained his hives with the support and mentorship of his friend Carl Holleman, a fellow environmentalist and attorney who kept bees for many years at his home in Apex. Mr. Joslin’s beekeeping enterprise was during the time before there was widespread public concern about the future of the European honey bee.

In the ’90s and early 2000s, we heard a lot about Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD). During these times, higher rates of winter hive losses were seen, and people feared the European honey bee might go extinct. Rest assured, there was no threat of extinction, then or now. Even without keeping hives, you can do so much at home to benefit wildlife. 

The best part of this extinction-scare was that it raised awareness of our use and misuse of pesticides used by the average person. Those of us who have spent a lifetime understanding Nature and the environment, like the Joslins, knew the connection between bees and other pollinators for pollen and nectar. The best indication of a healthy garden and Nature preserve is noting the butterflies, resident and migratory birds, and of course the European honey bees, and especially our native bees.

Scientists have estimated that globally, one in six native bee species is regionally extinct and more than 40 percent are vulnerable to extinction.

In the United States, there are about 4,000 native bee species. About 70% of bee species nest in the ground or cavities. We are not talking about the horrid, predatory wasp, Vespula spp. that colonizers underground and can attack if disturbed. We wouldn’t wish that on anyone. Where native bees are concerned, the vast majority are solitary and have no hive to protect, thus harmless.

Unfortunately, at least 23 percent of U.S. native bees have declined, with bees in areas with heavy commodity-crop production particularly hard hit due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Other threats to native bees include climate-driven sea-level rise and increased temperatures, loss of host plants, and competition and disease from non-native honeybees.

As an environmentalist and nature-lover, I make it a point to stay on top of wildlife losses and environmental improvements. There was a time when CCD had higher winter losses than the typical loss (pre-CCD) of 30%. Things have improved incredibly since then. 

Several years ago, I thought I was helping the European honey bee by trying my hand at beekeeping. With my pesticide-free ½ acre, planted specifically for birds, bees, and butterflies, I thought my beekeeping could help prevent the honey bee from going extinct. Well, actually, I never believed extinction was possible, though that fear did settle in for many. In any event, I was wrong in thinking I was helping by (trying to) keep bees; in fact, I may well have contributed to the problem.

I praise beekeepers who raise bees and harvest honey. Local honey is my go-to purchase. Oh, it is all so good! I like Greek yogurt with a dab of honey with my blueberries in the morning or afternoon snack!

To meet the demand for startup beekeepers with no mentor or training, garden centers started carrying hive supplies. That lasted a couple of years. Homeowners soon abandoned their hives after the bees left. Just like I did. What I didn’t really understand at the time was I might have contributed to even more honey bee losses, given my bees may have spread disease picked up in the hives I kept. This is distressing to think about.

On the positive side, besides the European honey bee not being in peril as many once thought, the real concerns are with agriculture, not home gardeners. I realized I have everything I need to help both European honey bees and our native bees. The same is true for the Joslin Garden, and since you admire the #JoslinGarden, as evidenced by the fact you are reading this, you probably do too!

HERE’S HOW WE HHER’S HOW TO HELP NATIVE BEES

Stop Using Pesticides. This makes sense, right? Not everyone knows that pesticides. They are all bad for the environment.

Go Native. In The Joslin Garden, we have both native and introduced plants like camellias. We have slowly begun to eradicate as many non-native invasive plants as we can. It will take time, but we know if we can keep at it, we will succeed. Look for future posts on our approach.

Diversity Is Key. Not all flower sizes fit all. With so many native bees requiring different needs, diversity is key. Bees have different tongue sizes. Short tongues need flowers with pollen and nectar that suits their reach. Longer tongues can get deep into the throat of the flower. And then there is the trusty carpenter bee that nectar-robs trumpet-shaped flowers by biting through the top where all the goodies are. 

Leave Snags. To learn more, click HERE! Having snags on your land is a great way to support local wildlife, especially native bees and cavity-nesting birds.

Leave Cutbacks. When doing spring cutback, leave about six to eight inches to stem height. A good example of this is Bee Balm, Monarda spp. Bee Balm has hollow stems, the perfect size for our friendly native Mason bee, Osmia spp.

Open Ground. Leave areas of unmulched ground,

Shop smart. Smaller nurseries that specialize in organic gardening will likely be your best bet. And remember, supply equals demand: The more you ask for pollinator-safe plants, the more likely stores will start stocking them.

Water. If you already have a birdbath, you’re good to go. Provide some pebbles or rocks as “islands” in the dish so pollinators—especially small bees—won’t drown. We at the Joslin Garden are fortunate to have a stream running through the property and we have a manmade frog pond! Of course, standing water can also attract an unwanted backyard pest: the mosquito. Make sure you empty and refill dishes frequently to keep the water fresh. To learn more about natural mosquito control, click HERE!

Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule

There are some plants when have to ask, Are you a weed or wondrous?

Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule, is considered a weed by many, but not by me! And before you think I just let weeds grow in my garden, or even the Joslin Garden, think again!  

Although they are considered weeds, you may be interested to learn henbit is a food source by pollinators in early spring. The flowers of henbit provide a pollen and nectar source for long-tongued bees, such as honey bees and bumblebees in March and April.

If given a choice, my girls will choose chickweed over henbit, but once the chickweed source is up, my chickens will then devour the henbit!

Did you know henbit is edible to humans as well? 

Hummingbirds enjoy the nectar of this wild edible, as well as being an important early-season nectar and pollen sources for honeybees.

While henbit has a shallow taproot, it easy to get up with a soil knife. 

The low growing, upright to sprawling plants has a number of weak stems arising from the base that may be erect or almost lay on the ground. The stems are square and green but often become purple with age and may root at the lower nodes. This edible weed reproduces solely by seed, and each henbit plant can produce 2,000 or more seeds. It also spreads by producing roots on lower stems that touch the ground.

There are some plants when have to ask, Are you a weed or wondrous?

Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule, is considered a weed by many, but not by me! And before you think I just let weeds grow in my garden, or even the Joslin Garden, think again!  

Although they are considered weeds, you may be interested to learn henbit is a food source by pollinators in early spring. The flowers of henbit provide a pollen and nectar source for long-tongued bees, such as honey bees and bumblebees in March and April.  If still in bloom when the hummingbirds migrate back

Wondering if hen in the name could mean chickens eat it? They sure do, however, if given a choice, my girls will choose chickweed over henbit, but once the chickweed source is up, my chickens will then devour the henbit!

Did you know henbit is edible to humans as well? Henbit can be consumed fresh or cooked as an edible herb, and it can be used in teas. 

The stem, flowers, and leaves are edible. It is very nutritious, high in iron, vitamins, and fiber. You can add it raw to salads, soups, wraps, or green smoothies.

While henbit has a shallow taproot, it easy to get up with a soil knife. 

Habitat

Henbit grows by roadsides, in cropland, pastures, in waste areas, in gardens, and on lawns. It prefers light, dry soil, and cultivated soil, and it originated in Eurasia and Northern Africa. It also grows in Australia, South America, western Asia, Greenland, and throughout Canada and the United States.

The Joslin Garden--1-28-2021--Three Ferns: The Good, The Bad, & The um, Ugly

Does the sight of a shady garden, filled with ferns, bring a smile to your eyes? It does mine!

I Love them all, or at least I think I do since I don’t know if I’ve come across all of the approximately 380 species of ferns in North America. Most of them can be found on the national forests and grasslands. We, gardeners, have our favorites. Today, we are highlight three growing in The Joslin Garden: The Good, The Bad, and um, The Ugly!

Remember. when looking at the pictures, our fern stands are mature. It will either take time for you to achieve the same lush level. If you want more sooner than later, you’ll have to raid the cookie jar! I have some serious fern envy from The Joslin Garden.

THE GOOD FERN: Ostrich Fern, Matteuccia struthiopteris

Matteuccia is a genus of ferns with one species: Matteuccia struthiopteris. The species epithet struthiopteris comes from Ancient Greek words στρουθίων "ostrich" fern. The one and only, and how good it is!

Up north, ostrich ferns can be invasive; that’s not so much of a problem here.

Did you know ferns are deer resistant? ~Helen Yoest

The wetter climate we’ve experienced in the last couple of years has gardeners ready to fill moist, shady areas with lush ferns. Tolerating both wet and drier situations, once established, as well as some sun to full shade, ostrich ferns colonize an area by spreading rhizomes. By lifting these rhizomes, and separating them into pieces, they can be transplanted elsewhere.

Dying back in winter, with a unique crown above ground, the fronds appear vigorously in the early spring, popping out of the ground almost overnight. The clumps also increase in size every year for a lush dramatic ground cover.

Winter look of ostrich ferns.

Did you know ostrich fern fiddleheads are edible? To harvest the fiddleheads, which are simply the curled or coiled young fronds emerging in the spring. Ostrich fiddleheads are considered a delicacy. Collect them when they are just emerging from the ground, up to about an inch above the soil line.

If a brown papery case surrounds the coiled fiddlehead, remove it by rubbing it off before cooking. Wash the fiddleheads several times in cold water to remove any dirt or grit, These fiddleheads can be store for a few days, tightly wrapped in the refrigerator before preparing. But the sooner cooked after harvest, the better.

Tasting like nutty asparagus, the fronds mesh well with stir-frying, hollandaise sauce, and tomatoes, A great source of vitamins A and C, fiddleheads should not be served raw as they can cause stomach upset. I like mine saluted in a little pad of butter.

Please be specific when eating fiddleheads. The ostrich fern is considered the safest to eat. People frequently forage for fiddleheads of other species like the lady fern or the shield fern, and consider them to be safe as long as they're cooked. Bracken fern fiddleheads are an especially controversial variety; many believe the ferns are fine in small quantities, but they're known to contain a carcinogen. I only consume ostrich fern fiddleheads and cooked.

THE BAD FERN, Bracken Fern, Pteridium spp.

Well, I should start by saying bracken ferns are GREAT in the garden. In fact, bracken ferns are gorgeous!!! Nothing bad here! But…

Bracken ferns

There was a time when the bracken fern had been used by man as a delicacy and for animal forage.  

Bracken ferns are noted for their large, highly divided leaves. They are found on all continents except Antarctica and in all environments except deserts. Their typical habitat is in uncultivated hill land. Great for use in erosion control. The genus probably has the widest distribution of any fern in the world

It is, however, a toxic plant that’s associated with tumor formation, bone marrow depression, blindness, and other serious conditions. Some believe bracken ferns can be eaten in moderation, but I’m NOT a believer and would not recommend this!

And…

THE um, UGLY FERN: Christmas Fern, Polystichum acrostichoides

Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides, is very easy to establish and grow where conditions are right. It requires cool, moist, well-drained soil in shade. In the right spot, it can be a good, evergreen border or accent plant. Though often used as a groundcover, it is a clumping fern, not forming a continuous, undifferentiated carpet the way some ferns do. But with enough of them, it can appear like a solid mass.

Within the winter #JoslinGarden, the native Christmas fern is a bright evergreen spot. Maybe not the showest fern in the summer, but finding a patch of green amongst our leaf litter #leavetheleaves at the #JoslinGarden during a cold winter day is heartwarming.

So why do I say ugly? Christmas ferns are so underused, I have to assume people don’t like their looks in the winter as they flatten to the ground. They are upright in the spring, summer, and fall.. I prefer the look of a Christmas fern in the dark days of winter. In the summer, their green seems to just blend in with all the surrounding green and can be missed. Now is the time to truly find the beauty in Christmas ferns!

Christmas ferns got its name because it stays green right through the holiday season. It is a robust, leathery fern with glossy, green fronds year-round.

Our native Christmas fern is very easy to establish and grow where conditions are right. It requires cool, moist, well-drained soil in shade. In the right spot, it can be a good, evergreen border or accent plant.The silvery fiddleheads emerge in early spring.

Did you know, #JoslinGarden is open for a covid-friendly stroll M-F from 9 to 5 when staff is here. We are closed Saturday and Sunday, but M-F we encourage you to visit and see how many Christmas ferns you can find! ~Helen Yoest

The City of Oaks Foundation is very fortunate to have volunteer groups come in to help in the garden. It is a most cherished labor gift to the #JoslinGarden. This past Saturday, we were honored with seven volunteers from The Gardeners of Wake County. I know these folks; I was a member for years, but I just got to busy to attend; I’v spoken to the group many times. The programs are wonderful, and the meetings are great fun. We had seven volunteers for four hours. Imagine, that is 28 hours of hard labor, helping to beautify the garden. Thank you so much!!!

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist

The Joslin Garden--January 21, 2021-Roses are Thorny, Creeping Charlie smells as does Stinking Hellebores, but at the heart of it all was a Pearl Fryers topiary

THE JOSLIN GARDEN 

The City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks

It’s a good feeling working in a garden by taking one step at a time. As our journey begins, The Joslin Garden needs some love. It’s best not to look at the garden as a whole. It can feel overwhelmed knowing what needs to be done. Yet, we have help; thankfully, we can make progress week by week, month by month. This will be important as the Foundation hopes to open for a private garden tour in April. I only have myself to blame; I think we can get the garden ready by then! At the very least, The Formal Garden and Lawn will be ready to show off!

ROSES

None of the roses in this bed are marked, but the database lists ‘Nastarana’, ‘Yellow Ribbons,’ and Rosa banksiae in this area. Come May, with the first flush of blooms, I hope to identify and label each of these.

It was time to cut back the roses. These roses have been here for many, many years. It is obvious by the base of the plant.

Rose Garden before cutbacks

I left a big pile of cuttings at the edge of the driveway. My bad. During my day there and with volunteers coming Saturday, we don’t have enough vessels to package up yard waste for curbside pick up. Nell order 20 paper yard waste bags to use for this batch. We needed to be ready. Hopefully, one of the volunteers, who likes working with thorny rose cutbacks can package them up. In any event, I will ask our Garden Angle, Neal Wisenbaker with Parks if he can drive by with a dump truck sometime when he is in the area. We will be exceeding the number we can dump at any given time since Yard Waste only now comes every other week.

While I was working in the rose garden, I see there is mint, cleome, rosemary, salvias, others not yet identified. I can’t wait to see what awaits!!!

CREEPING CHARLIE
I tend to be a VERY optimistic gardener. But there is something about Charlie that worries me. He’s worrying me.. Creeping Charlie, Glechoma hederacea, is EVERYWHERE. Really! I started with my first patch removal.

Creeping Charlie

Every gardener has their favorite garden tools. My tool of choice, besides my Felco clippers, is a soil knife. It can dig deep but also, used horizontally, it can cut shallow roots with its serrated edge. We may have a lot of Creeping Charlie, but it doesn’t really take long to go after it.

NANDINA

I’m with Nell on this one, we wanted the nandina G. O. N. E. gone! I learned a neat trick from Nell. I have a history of removing nandina, and they have roots to China and dense! In my experience, they are one of the most difficult shrubs to rid if you want to root too. What Nell does, is first cut and bag the berries. We know how they love to procreate!

Then cut the shrub down to the ground. Nell then puts a couple of layers of cardboard over the top of the root. and then cover with a thick layer of mulch. Nell says it does the trick every time.

Looks great, don’t you think?

STINKING HELLEBORES

Nell cut back stinking Hellebores, Helleborus foetidus, down by the street.. You gotta love common names, right?

Did you know this hellebore gets a common name from an unpleasant odor when the leaves are crushed?

Helleborus foetidus also has another common name. Due to the nature of the plant’s weeping structure of its deeply cut leaves, a Bear’s Foot comes to mind.

VOLUNTEERS

Volunteers are coming on Saturday— Chris shot a few how-to videos to show the volunteers where to work, including cutting back ginger lilies, ostrich and bracken ferns, picking up sticks, and of course, digging up Creeping Charlie and smilax.

More of that next Thursday!

PRUNING PEARL FRYER TOPIARY
No pressure here No, Not At. ALL. haha. I’m a huge fan of Pearl Fryer. Pearl and he has reached the top of my horticulture heroes list. In 2008 I visited his garden. And now all these years later, it has come full circle.

Pruned Pearl Fryer heart was given to Mary Coker Joslin, also from South Carolina

In looking at the after picture now, I think I need to take out more growth. That will go on my next week’s to-do list!

Remember the edge I cut last week? Nell added branches to edge the bed. I love having these natural edgings. It’s not for every garden, but there is a sense of place in The Joslin Garden.

One of the many things I like about focused women, is determination. I’m that way. Watch out when I need to get something finished. Well, it appears Nell is the same way. Imagine what it took for her to rid the root of this smilax?

Here is the culprit climbing up a camellia bush. Look for the vertical line at 11:45.

Until soon,

Helen

A Visit to Pearl Fryer's Topiary Garden

In April 2008, I first wrote about Pearl Fryer’s Topiary Garden, but under a different platform. I thought it best to repost under Bee Better Naturally since I happen to be working on a heart piece given to Mary Coker Joslin in the Joslin Garden.

April last year, I stopped to visit Pearl Fryer’s topiary garden.  I have been an admirer for a very long time.  As a volunteer regional representative for the Garden Conservancy’s Open Days tour, it did me proud when

It was a cold misty day when I visited April 2008.  I plan to go again. One night, a while back, the kids and I watched the documentary on Pearl called, A Man Named Pearl.  They, as was I, was wowed by the man and the garden.  They want to see this garden.  It’s in a neighborhood where one might otherwise feel like an intruder – sweet, quiet, quaint.  But it’s OK, Pearl and the neighbors are used to the traffic.  Even when I visited, on a cold and misty day with no one in sight, the garden was welcoming.

Here’s an expert from my journal…

By the sweet smell of wood smoke coming from his chimney, I assumed Pearl Fryer was home–-inside warm, dry, and cozy–-outside 50, drizzling, and gray. Yet the sculpted gardens were bright and cheerful. I finally had the chance to visit the amazing topiary gardens of Pearl’s dreams. I’m glad I did. Located in Bishopville, SC, this garden is now being preserved by the Garden Conservancy

Greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia

If ever there was a native plant gardeners love to hate, it’s greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia!

Most of the eastern US has been invaded by greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia. I say invaded because as a native, it is not technically invasive, but rather aggressive; and AGGRESSIVE it is!  But when it comes to greenbriar, it is an invasion. Reaching over a 20-feet climb!

Did you know the difference between invasive and aggressive is that invasive refers to non-native plants and aggressive refers to native plants that love your space too much! ~Helen Yoest

Greenbriar’s native range is the Southeastern US that extends as far north as southern Nova Scotia and southern Ontario, and continues west to southern Michigan, Indiana, and southern Illinois; south through southeastern Missouri to eastern Texas; and east to northern Florida. It’s overtaking the EAST! Native or not, and edible or not, as we shall see, it has no place in a cultivated garden. 

Smilax spreads both by seed and vegetatively. 

Flowers are green and present from April until August, and yes, smilax has incredible wildlife benefits (see below.) But if you close your eyes for long enough, it will spread beyond belief. The birds spread the seed, and the root tuber just grows and grows and grows, forming dense underground thickets.

Blue-black berries appear in September and may stay through the winter. Seeds are red. And be sure to wear gloves when dealing with greenbriar. It is a thorny vine! Once called “The devil’s wrapping yarn” because of its thorns and tendrils.

The preference is partial sun, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and a slightly acidic soil containing loam, clay-loam, rocky material, or sand. Pretty much everywhere. I even have it at the Cottage on Emerald Isle, NC where there it is ALL sand. The seeds can remain dormant in the ground for several years; germination in the soil is enhanced by greater exposure to light.

Wildlife Benefits:

This is the painful part of riding this plant.

Likely pollinator floral visitors of Smilax rotundifolia include a variety of bees and flies, including, Halictid bees, Andrenid bees, cuckoo bees, Syrphid flies, and other flies. 

The flowers offer nectar as a floral reward to such visitors; the male flowers also offer pollen.

Songbirds feed on the berries of smilax. These bird species include the Ruffed Grouse, Red-Bellied Woodpecker, American Crow, Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Eastern Bluebird, and White-Throated Sparrow

Also, Greenbriar is also the host plant for various moth species including Spotted Phosphila Moth, Curve-lined Owlet Moth, Proleucoptera smilaciella, and Marmara smilacisella

Edible Benefits: 

Berries are delicious raw or cooked into a jam or jelly. Roots can be ground and dried and used like flour. Early Native Americans used the roots as a starch source. The roots can also be used like any root vegetable – boiled, stewed, or roasted.

Chickweed, Stellaria media

I have it; you have it, we all have it. Please don't say it's never in your garden. I wouldn't want you to fib.

Stellaria media, also known as chickweed, is ubiquitous in cool weather gardens. When you aren't paying attention, chickweed germinates in autumn or late winter form large mats. It dies out once the temperatures warm up, but it will be back!

Native to Eurasia and naturalized throughout; it may be the crop of the world! At least for chickens. But did you know it's edible for us too?

Chickweed is grown as a vegetable crop and ground cover for both human and poultry feed. The leaves, flowers, stems, as well as seeds are all edible. They can be eaten raw in a salad or lightly cooked. The peak of flavor is when the flowers are blooming, with a taste reminiscent of spinach and is more nutritious than lettuce!  

Chickweed is rich in vitamin A and contains great amounts of vitamin C, etheric oils, flavonoids, and the minerals potassium, silicic acid, zinc, phosphorus, as well as, magnesium and copper.

While many may call these weeds, many insects could not live without them in Georgia. These durable, tolerant, and prolific plants provide essential services to our native bees, butterflies, beetles, and many birds.

his plant produces 1/2 inch to one inch stems that usually sprawl across the ground. It branches abundantly near the base and sprawls out. To harvest, rid, or otherwise weed out, it's best to use a garden knife to dig out the root from the plant's center. 

Typical growing conditions are sun to light shade, moist, fertile loam, or even in clay. 

The flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds! I harvest it for my girls. They gobble it up!

Wildlife Value:

Attracts bees, butterflies, and songbirds. Host plant for many butterfly and moth species, including the Chickweed Geometer Moth, Haematopis grataria

Helen Yoest

To purchase my books, click HERE!

The Joslin Garden—January 14, 2021—Making a Verdant Edge

THE JOSLIN GARDEN 

The City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks

January 14, 2021—Making a Verdant Edge—10A—Formal Garden and Lawn

Nell and I started our morning with a chill in the air and the prospect of sun and warmth in the early afternoon. The forecast came true.

On a slow walk through the chilly property, Nell and I discussed approaching the massive four-acre nature preserve. We were like old friends walking down memory lane, as can happen when two nature-lovers walk the woods, even though today is only our second day together in the garden. The discussion, in part, was how to approach the garden’s care. What did we decide? We will start in one named area, and then move to the next.

We are currently working in the Formal Garden & Lawn

Although not our focus this morning, as we walked along the garden paths, we naturally started pulling greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia. We were both giddy when we pulled the offensive "weed" from the ground with the bulb still attached. Success! Alas, smilax will be here forever, though. 

Did you know all parts of our native greenbrier are edible and tasty as well! The new shoots can be sautèd like asparagus. Native Americans used the roots as a starch source. ~Helen Yoest

Maybe we shouldn't be too quick to judge; smilax is a native, after all. STILL! Need I say more? I digress, though; today's update is about dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus, and its traits, and another green edging.

The prevalence of dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana', and the straight species O. japonicus indicate that it must have been a favorite of Mary and Bill Joslin. Along the path edges at the beginning 10A--The Formal Garden and Lawn, mondo thrives. In one large patch, infringing within the bed proper, we lifted a good chunk of it and transplanted it to the other side of the path for continuity, and when I say "we" I mean Nell did it all!

Wide patch of dwarf mondo from where Nell pulled to transplant. We will continue on this transformation next week.

Area where Nell began the transplants.

With a little encouragement, The Formal Lawn could be replaced with 'Nana'. Or at least it seems it's trying to tell us so. Or perhaps it stopped spreading as the sun becomes too much for dwarf mondo to bare. I'll learn more about the sun conditions as the seasons’ march on.

Dwarf mondo grass ‘Nana’ is growing through and to the right of the tree shadow. Imagine if the entire lawn was ‘Nana’!

Did you know dwarf mondo 'Nana' was a sport of the straight species, and in this case, is a more desirable trait? Or at least we think so. 'Nana' has to be monitored, though; it will revert to the straight species.

An example of O.jaonicus' Nana' that has reverted back to the species. If not removed, 'Nana' would soon be lost as it will be taken over the straight species. And while I like both, 'Nana', in my mind, has more value, especially since the price for a flat is so dear. The straight species, not so much

Reverted center clump removed.

Dwarf mondo sounds like an oxymoron to me. I would imagine if George Carlin were a plantsman, and he well may have been, he would have been all over this dichotomy—dwarf—MONDO! Ha!

We took our verdant focus to other areas of the garden. While we want all the paths cleared for a delineation between paths and beds, path edging is our guidepost, but a good blowing will make a world of difference. And now that leaf season is about over; the timing is perfect. 

(Note to self: Get with Neal about this.)

With verdant green on my mind, and edging too, there were a few areas I wanted to tackle while Nell was working on transplanting the 'Nana'. Within the Formal Garden and Lawn, Liriope muscari edges the beds. There are lots of names for this mostly evergreen edging plant. You may know it as monkey grass, lily tuff, or even liriope! It's nice when an actual genus name is used instead of a common name. 

Groomed Liriope edge next to the to the Former Lawn.

I raked to move leaves off the lawn and within the liriope into the beds for a natural mulch.

Did you know there is life in those leaves? There is a bonified campaign to #LeaveTheLeaves.  As the founding member of such a campaign, please note that it doesn't necessarily mean leaving them in place. In the Joslin Garden, we moved them into the beds for a natural and free mulch. We also don’t recommend chopping up the leaves with a mower. In doing so, the critters and food in the leaf litter are chopped up too. :(

During our walk, I found the moss lawn. I have a special place in my heart for moss and learned Nell does too. I was very fortunate to write for a moss grower and designer for over five years. It was an honor. I’m sorry to say, the moss guy has since passed away.

Leaf litter covering the moss lawn.

Nell and I are both keenly aware garden care will be a goal for generations to come; she and I are now the current caregivers or stewards of this beautiful parcel of land with support from the City of Raleigh Parks. We are working with Neal Wisenbaker providing support from his District's team on an as-needed basis. Today, Neal dropped up some tools for us to use. The deed was most appreciative!

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist

…and life long sustainable gardener

Southern Living magazine named Helen Yoest the pollinating expert of the Southeast

Helen Yoest is also the author of several books.

Growing a Food Forest System

Most of us are familiar with forests as an ecosystem, hosting a diversity of plants, fungi, and insects. Deep in the forest, we see layers and niches. Think Tarzan swinging on three-inch diameter vines!

Imagine your forest system producing food, with the majority of elements in that system being productive.

By understanding how nature designs forest systems, they are self-maintaining and self-replicating, we can model that system with productive species to produce a food most sustainably. There would be a minimum amount of input and a maximum amount of output.

LAYERS WITHIN A FOREST

All forests have layers—canopy, over-story, under-story, shrub, herbaceous, root yield, and ground covers and climbers. Our food forest system can have each of these and give us food.

In traditional permaculture, a food forest system, one would grow a canopy cover, particularly a legume, to fix nitrogen in the soil and build under from there. As the canopy served its life, the biomass that remains is left to decay or be broken up into the soil naturally. 

In the Bee Better Teaching Garden, we skipped the canopy layer, so we didn’t need to wait for something to die as our food forest system matured. Instead, we built the soil by adding four-inches of composted leaves each year. Mind you, I’ve been doing this since 1998, and I would encourage you to begin doing so do so as well if you aren’t already adding an annual mulch. The productivity of our soil is constant, and fertility is constantly increasing. 

Our garden planting focus is based on six layers— understory, shrubs, herbaceous/annuals, root yield, ground laver, and climbers, with edibles grown in each of these layers:

UNDERSTORY

Asian Pear

The understory in the Bee Better Teaching Garden is made up mostly of fruit trees, including:

Apple, Malus domestica ‘Honeycrisp’ 

Kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa 

Peach, Prunus persica ‘Redhaven’

Pear Asian, Pyrus pyrifolia

Pear, Bartlette pear, Pyrus communis x P. pyrifolia ‘Kiefer’

Persimmon,  Diospyros kaki  ‘Fuyu’ 

Plum, Prunus salicina ‘Santa Rosa’ 

Paw Paws, Asimina triloba

Sassafras, Sassafras albidum

Quince, Cydonia oblonga ‘Pineapple’

SHRUB

Beautyberry, Callicarpa americana

Camellia tea plant, Camellia sinensis var. sinensis

Goji, Lycium barbarum 

Goumi, Elaeagnus multiflora

Bay leaves, Laurus nobilis

HERBACEOUS/ANNUALS 

The herbaceous plants change out during the seasons, with kale and lettuce in late winter/early spring and basil and tomatoes in the summer heat. I also self sow sesame and buckwheat and have done other edibles as well. 

ROOT YEILD

The produce in the root yield also changes out during the seasons. Onions, carrots, garlic, and even peonies! But, no, I grow peonies for the flowers, although the petals can be used for a nice tea, yes, the roots are edible!

Harvested garlic from the Food Forest

GROUND LAYER

Peanuts, Arachis hypogaea, which are technically a root yield, as well, plus rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus and strawberries, Fragaria × ananassa ‘Ozark Beauty’ 

CLIMBER

Malabar spinach, Basella alba

Muscadine grape, Vitis rotundifolia

Elsewhere on our 1/2 acre, we have: 

Apricot, Prunus armeniaca ‘Garden Annie’

Apple, Malus pumila ‘North Sentinel’

Banana, Musa spp.—use leaves for steaming food

Blackberries, Rubus fruticosus ‘Apache’ and ‘Arapaho’

Blueberries, Vaccinium ashei ‘Premier’, ‘Climax’, & ‘Powder Blue’ 

Cherry, Prunus avium ‘Stella’ 

Chives, Allium schoenoprasum

Chokeberry, Aronia melanocarpa 

Chokecherry, Prunus virginiana

Figs, Ficus carica, ‘LSU Purple’, ‘Brown Turkey’, and ‘Celeste’

Guava, Psidium cattleianum ‘Strawberry’

Plum ‘Corinthian’, Prunus persica hybrid ‘Corinthian’

Kiwi ‘Issai’, Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’

Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica—Every year, there are interesting flowers loved by bees, but no fruit. We can grow kumquat in our area, with evergreen leaves and fall to winter flowers. However, fruiting will not occur if temperatures drop to 25ºF or below. 

Passion vines, Passiflora incarnata and the tropical P. edulis

Raspberries ‘Southland’, Rubus idaeus ‘Southland’

Serviceberry, Amelanchier × grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’

The Joslin Garden--January 7, 2021—Taming the Vine

THE JOSLIN GARDEN

City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks

January 7, 2021—Taming of the Vine—10A—Formal Garden and Lawn

On this chilly morning, Nell and I started at the house entrance where the vine grows.

Before my time in the garden, birds often perched along split-rail fence lining the upper driveway to the entrance of the former Joslin home; now known as The Joslin Garden. 

Bed 10A Before our first maintenance

Tangled native Carolina jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens, with a few yellow buds just beginning to form, benefited from a refresher. Visible from both the driveway and the garden path below, our focus today was to tame the vine, having it travel along the top of the fence line.  

Indeed birds still perch along the fence line, and will no doubt continue to leave their calling card for many years with more Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis, seedlings growing freely along the fence line. We also found wintercreeper, Euonymus fortunei. A gardener before me must have kept a keen eye on this invasive. There wasn't much to pull, and what was there was, was easy to retrieve. 

We promise there are plenty of native berry-producing plants to feed you, dear birds. We look forward to seeing what other gifts you might bring us. Helen Yoest

Also, within the fence line was a volunteer nandina, Nandina domestica. Birds aren't fond of these berries, yet nandina spread. Indeed, they are toxic to birds, thus birds avoid consuming them. I've often thought a bird holds a berry in its beak, only to get a taste before eating and dropping it to the ground. Yuck! I need to understand more about birds and nandina berries. Since this is not a berry bush I grow to feed the birds or even for its ornamental value.

The Carolina jasmine stretched to twine around the young branches of the columnar peach trees, Prunus Persia' Corinthian Pink'.

Did you know the direction of vine twines is species-dependent? The Carolina jasmine twines left to right and tightly. Once it has a foothold on tree branches, removal is difficult. Some remnants remain. Once the cut vines dry, their tight hold relaxes, removing the rest of the vine is accomplished without harm to the tree. 

In the Formal Garden and Lawn, we cut back garden phlox, Phlox paniculata and bronze fennel, Foeniculum vulgare leaving about seven to eight-inch standing. These hollow stems are good nesting sites for native bees if they choose.

After our first round of cutbacks to weed and ready bed for spring.

At the entrance lamp post, another. Euonymus spp. grows. Poorly groomed over the decades, we studied the form. It appears it was planted with intent and then spread in an undesirable shape. Nell and I agreed to pull out the offending forms, and Nell took the lead on this pruning. She did a fine job, don't you think! I was remiss in getting a before picture, but I hope you find the after-pruning image agreeable.

The gardenia, Gardenia spp. at the entrance of the back porch had suckered over time and was infringing the pathway. Knowing this was a much-loved shrub, I was careful in my suggestion to remove the suckers.

There were quite a few suckers. The results pleased both Nell and me. The left side of the remaining shrub will fill-in to have a nice rounded form. I know doing these kinds of cuts takes a leap of faith or a lot of experience. 

Gardenia after pruning out suckers

At first, I proposed to cut back the lantana, Lantana camera, cultivar unknown, but then thought better. I decided to leave it standing. The multi-branches provide excellent cover for birds escaping predators. Plus, in truth, this stand of lantana, with the ground leaves providing food for the birds, and other wildlife, is a natural combination.

Bed Former Garden and Lawn also had Glechoma hederacea, an aromatic evergreen perennial ground cover that is hard the stop. It is coming up from the grass area. So you want to know the common name of this invasive weed from Europe? I say gill-over-the-ground, Nell says, Creeping Charlie. You might call it ground-ivy, run-away robin, field balm, or some other regional common name. That is why Latin names are so important. But here's a tip. I never learned this plant's Latin name because it is one plant I don't want to know officially, so gill-over-the-ground suffices.

It was a good day to be in the garden. I feel so fortunate to be the primary caregiver of this magnificent piece of nature right in the heart of Raleigh. And working with Nell Joslin only made the day sweeter as we accomplished our goal for the day and look forward to next week.

Until soon! Naturally

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist

Five Area Women in Horticulture

We are so fortunate in the Triangle area to have the weather allowing us to garden year-round and area garden designers and enthusiasts who are infectious! For those who need design guidance, we are featuring here five area women in garden design, including Edith Eddleman, Suzanne Edney, Amy Strunk, and Jan Watson. I hope their thoughts will help motivate you to make 2021 the year of gardening!

EDITH EDDLEMAN 

JC Raulston Arboretum Perennial Border

Recently, I had the privilege of interviewing Edith Eddleman; and for those few of you in the design arena who have not heard the name, you certainly know her work. 

Quick-witted, with a keen eye for color, and a graceful, pleasant pace that makes one sit back and listen to the wisdom of her words. Edith’s talent? English-style perennial borders. I don’t doubt if Edith were a British Subject, she would have been honored the title Dame Edith Eddleman; although as humble as Edith is, this suggestion probably made her blush.

Author’s note:

The project has been stalled due to the arboretum’s closure to the public due to COVID-19. Personally, I can’t wait to see what they have been up to!

Edith and Doug are currently working on the history of the JC Raulston Arboretum, Gertrude Jekyll-style English perennial border, with Edith’s own twists to deal with area sunlight and heat. My interview with Edith was short so as not to give up too much of the history of this notable and magnificent perennial border, since a book is forthcoming. 

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I was inspired by Ollie Adams, a then volunteer at Mordecai Historic Park in Raleigh to become a professional designer, sharing with me a design school I might be interested in. The school was in England, called the Clock House School of Garden Design, founded by John Brooks, located in Denmans, Fontwell, near Arundel, West Sussex, UK.

I spent a month learning from Mr. Brooks, then spent another month traveling around England studying English gardens.

As soon as came home I had my first client literally knocking on my door! Before I left for England, I planted 300 spring-blooming bulbs. My soon-to-be-client saw all the blooming bulbs and asked if I would design her garden!

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded.

It would have to be the 18 by 300-foot English-style perennial border at the JC Raulston Arboretum. I began this volunteer project in 1981, and have worked on designing, planting, and maintaining, as time allowed, since that time. In 1985, Doug Ruhren join the project. Even though Doug is now the Gardens Manager at the JCRA, he still volunteers his time working on the perennial bed. 

Our efforts worked so well since Doug and I were able to be bold in our work because we are from a time where there were not a lot of rules.

It’s been a long time since there was a revision. The JCRA perennial has had a lot of revisions over the years, and it is now time for another. New changes will include wildlife benefits. With the awareness of the importance of pollinators, we are refining the border with more plants for pollinators; Doug is spearheading a lot of these 

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

This may not sound very interesting, but I start with one perennial and build from there.

Is garden design an art form?

Yes! Like performance art, a place where different plant performers, like actors, take center stage, then step back for other plants to take the lead.

SUZANNE EDNEY

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

Owning my first house and property. I began decorating the yard. Will Hooker, a beloved landscape architect and professor of Landscape Design at North Carolina State University, happened to be my neighbor. He encouraged me to become a landscape designer.

A sketch on one of Suzanne's earlier projects

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded

The opportunity to relocate the Finley Nottingham Rose Garden arrived in 2006 at the JC Raulston Arboretum when it was expanded from eight to ten acres. To draw visitors into this newly acquired two acres at the southeast end of the arboretum, a site was chosen for the redesigning of this important and endowed rose display. It has become a prominent destination when visiting the JC Raulston Arboretum. 

Working from conception to a finished design is quite a thrilling experience.

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

To look at a site from prominent entry and exit points. I always insist on going into a client’s house to see the views from all the windows. I take photographs and use those to balance the two-dimensional images. A trick I gleaned from reading Gertrude Jekyll.

Is garden design an art form? 

To me, it is the ultimate sculptural experience.

AMY STRUNK

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I am extremely fortunate to have spent several years of my childhood overseas due to my father’s job. Living in the tropics had a big influence on me as we were surrounded by four seasons of lush beauty!

I remember the first winter when we had moved back to Virginia and I realized that orchids could not grow on trees year-round; what a disappointment! Rather than being sad about what couldn’t grow, I delved into what could grow and found my first job at a local garden center. Working there part-time in high school gave me the chance to learn the design and horticulture business from the ground up.

One of Amy’s Lifestyle Designs

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded.

I did the initial design for an outdoor island and built-in grill, water feature, and patio along with seasonal plantings focusing on native plants and pollinators. Over the years, it has been a joy to continue to work with the customer and watch the garden evolve, add new plants to fill in overtime, and even replace a few things that just didn’t thrive. Such is gardening!

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

I start all of my projects with a site visit where we walk the property so I can get a feel for the space and learn more about the client. Most people give me a wish list of plants, materials or items they’d like in their space. My job is to listen to what they’re asking and translate that into a personalized space they love.

Is garden design an art form? 

I certainly believe so. Anytime you create something based on your own experience and are able to show it and share it is an art in my opinion. A well-designed garden engages all of your senses at once and that is an incredible feeling!

JAN WATSON

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I’ve always loved being outside and I think that naturally led me to a career in horticulture and design.  It is an absolute privilege to be able to create beauty for a living.  

Please share a notable project you spearheaded.

Duke Gardens recently completed a renovation of the Mary Duke Biddle Rose Garden. One of the main goals of the redesign was to create a space with four seasons of interest.  Roses, perennials, and evergreens are surrounded by an abundance of ornamental grasses, providing filler and strong vertical accents.  

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design?

For me, the creative process starts with having some practical information about the site’s present and future. Once I know my parameters, I can make design decisions that are not only functional but also excite and inspire.  

Is garden design an art form? 

It is most definitely a form of art.  And, just like other art forms, it takes heart and a lot of practice to succeed.  

HELEN YOEST, Yes, that’s me!

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

 As a lifelong gardener and nature lover, I was remiss in even knowing there is a degree in horticulture science. To be fair, it was during that time when sort science wasn’t a stand-alone degree. Instead, I choose to follow my heart to the environment, in general and received degrees in both environmental science and engineering. 

Please share a notable project you spearheaded.

Just planted! It may not look like much now, but once the rest of plants arrive and it fills in, it will be a pollinator’s paradise.

For the City of Raleigh, I had the good fortune to design and install Halifax Park’s two entrance beds. Given free-rein, with approval from the City’s Horticulturalist, I designed the beds in a Piet Oudolf-style. Mr. Oudolf’s designs are some of my favorites, and although he doesn’t specifically plant for wildlife naturally they come.

Piet Oudolf is an influential Dutch garden designer, plant nurseryman, and author. He is a leading figure in the New Perennial movement—his designs and plant compositions using bold drifts of herbaceous perennials and grasses which are chosen at least as much for their structure as for their flower color.

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design?

I start with the wildlife benefits of a plant. In conversations with clients, I learn of what their interest is in. If they want to attract area birds, I know I need more than just supplemental feeders. They also need trees, shrubs, and flowering plants to provide seeds, brood food, and berries.

Is garden design an art form?

Indeed it is, and it goes beyond pretty flowers or flower/foliage combinations. I find the sight of an American goldfinch, Sinus trusts, eating the seeds of a brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, just as beautiful. If not even more beautiful than the flower itself! Visitors to my garden is what gives me my greatest thrill

Winter is the perfect time to evaluate what you want from a garden, with time to read, lear, and even contact your favorite designer to build the garden of your dreams.

Until soon!

Naturally, Helen

2023 January Garden Sustainable Stewardship Practices for the Southeast

January: The sun is low on most January days, but my hopes are high. When I walk the garden during the winter, I hope to find solace in Nature. As I look around, the trees, void of leaves, show me structure and strength. They make me feel stronger with every step I take.

January is also an excellent time to look back on your gardening year and to plan for the year ahead. Walk around your garden and take photos. Seeing your garden through the lens is telling, and looking at these pictures can help you see where you may want to make changes. Your mind can block out clutter to give a more settled view. Take a picture of your garden areas as they are now, and notice what clutter can be changed and accept or hide what can’t. Even better, photograph your garden each month as a photo journal of what is blooming and when.

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The Back 40 (ft) North to South—Picked up bagged leaves from streets to add here

The Back 40 (ft) South to North

Gazebo Corner—Picked up the chestnuts and raked leaves into beds.

The Epimedium Patch—Picked up the chestnuts and raked leaves into beds.

The Wildflower Patch Extension—I’m not hopeful the epimediums the rabbits ate to a nub will return.

The Wildflower Patch—This area is coming along.

The Southside

The Ostrich Fern Garden—It doesn’t look like much now, but wait til spring!

The Front Fountain Garden—The Japanese Glass Floats are stealing the show!

The Blackberry Patch with Chimney Swift Tower

The Food Forest Extension

The Front Beds

The Parterre—I’m happy with these beds as annuals. I don’t have to think!

Rock Garden

The Raspberry Patch

The Pollinator Garden—The transplants from the NC State Fair that make up this redo are doing fone.

The Blackberry Patch

The North Side—This is looking gorgeous!

The Girl’s Garden

The Wildlife Pond

Mixed Border, North to South

Mixed Border, South to North.

SNAKES: WONDERING WHAT SNAKE IS IN YOUR BACKYARD? CLICK HERE FOR AN EASY ID.

GLOSSARY

Until soon,

Helen

#WeCanAllBeeBetter!